She
remembers the moment. The photographer took her picture. She remembers her
anger. The man was a stranger. She had never been photographed before. Until
they met again 17 years later, she had not been photographed since.
The
photographer remembers the moment too. The light was soft. The refugee camp in
Pakistan was a sea of tents. Inside the school tent he noticed her first.
Sensing her shyness, he approached her last. She told him he could take her
picture. “I didn’t think the photograph of the girl would be different from
anything else I shot that day,” he recalls of that morning in 1984 spent
documenting the ordeal of Afghanistan’s refugees.
The
portrait by Steve McCurry turned out to be one of those images that sears the
heart, and in June 1985 it ran on the cover of this magazine. Her eyes are sea
green. They are haunted and haunting, and in them you can read the tragedy of a
land drained by war. She became known around National Geographic as the “Afghan
girl,” and for 17 years no one knew her name.
In
January a team from National Geographic Television & Film’s EXPLORER
brought McCurry to Pakistan to search for the girl with green eyes. They showed
her picture around Nasir Bagh, the still standing refugee camp near Peshawar
where the photograph had been made. A teacher from the school claimed to know
her name. A young woman named Alam Bibi was located in a village nearby, but
McCurry decided it wasn’t her.
No,
said a man who got wind of the search. He knew the girl in the picture. They had
lived at the camp together as children. She had returned to Afghanistan years
ago, he said, and now lived in the mountains near Tora Bora. He would go get
her.
It
took three days for her to arrive. Her village is a six-hour drive and
three-hour hike across a border that swallows lives. When McCurry saw her walk
into the room, he thought to himself: This is her.
Names
have power, so let us speak of hers. Her name is Sharbat Gula, and she is
Pashtun, that most warlike of Afghan tribes. It is said of the Pashtun that
they are only at peace when they are at war, and her eyes—then and now—burn
with ferocity. She is 28, perhaps 29, or even 30. No one, not even she, knows
for sure. Stories shift like sand in a place where no records exist.
Time
and hardship have erased her youth. Her skin looks like leather. The geometry
of her jaw has softened. The eyes still glare; that has not softened. “She’s
had a hard life,” said McCurry. “So many here share her story.” Consider the
numbers. Twenty-three years of war, 1.5 million killed, 3.5 million refugees:
This is the story of Afghanistan in the past quarter century.
Now,
consider this photograph of a young girl with sea green eyes. Her eyes
challenge ours. Most of all, they disturb. We cannot turn away.
“There
is not one family that has not eaten the bitterness of war,” a young Afghan
merchant said in the 1985 National
Geographic story that
appeared with Sharbat’s photograph on the cover. She was a child when her
country was caught in the jaws of the Soviet invasion. A carpet of destruction
smothered countless villages like hers. She was perhaps six when Soviet bombing
killed her parents. By day the sky bled terror. At night the dead were buried.
And always, the sound of planes, stabbing her with dread.
“We
left Afghanistan because of the fighting,” said her brother, Kashar Khan,
filling in the narrative of her life. He is a straight line of a man with a
raptor face and piercing eyes. “The Russians were everywhere. They were killing
people. We had no choice.”
Shepherded
by their grandmother, he and his four sisters walked to Pakistan. For a week
they moved through mountains covered in snow, begging for blankets to keep
warm.
“You
never knew when the planes would come,” he recalled. “We hid in caves.”
The
journey that began with the loss of their parents and a trek across mountains
by foot ended in a refugee camp tent living with strangers.
“Rural
people like Sharbat find it difficult to live in the cramped surroundings of a
refugee camp,” explained Rahimullah Yusufzai, a respected Pakistani journalist
who acted as interpreter for McCurry and the television crew. “There is no
privacy. You live at the mercy of other people.” More than that, you live at
the mercy of the politics of other countries. “The Russian invasion destroyed
our lives,” her brother said.
It is
the ongoing tragedy of Afghanistan. Invasion. Resistance. Invasion. Will it
ever end? “Each change of government brings hope,” said Yusufzai. “Each time,
the Afghan people have found themselves betrayed by their leaders and by
outsiders professing to be their friends and saviors.”
In the
mid-1990s, during a lull in the fighting, Sharbat Gula went home to her village
in the foothills of mountains veiled by snow. To live in this earthen-colored
village at the end of a thread of path means to scratch out an existence,
nothing more. There are terraces planted with corn, wheat, and rice, some
walnut trees, a stream that spills down the mountain (except in times of
drought), but no school, clinic, roads, or running water.
Here
is the bare outline of her day. She rises before sunrise and prays. She fetches
water from the stream. She cooks, cleans, does laundry. She cares for her
children; they are the center of her life. Robina is 13. Zahida is three. Alia,
the baby, is one. A fourth daughter died in infancy. Sharbat has never known a
happy day, her brother says, except perhaps the day of her marriage.
Her
husband, Rahmat Gul, is slight in build, with a smile like the gleam of a
lantern at dusk. She remembers being married at 13. No, he says, she was 16.
The match was arranged.
He
lives in Peshawar (there are few jobs in Afghanistan) and works in a bakery. He
bears the burden of medical bills; the dollar a day he earns vanishes like
smoke. Her asthma, which cannot tolerate the heat and pollution of Peshawar in
summer, limits her time in the city and with her husband to the winter. The
rest of the year she lives in the mountains.
At the
age of 13, Yusufzai, the journalist, explained, she would have gone into
purdah, the secluded existence followed by many Islamic women once they reach
puberty.
“Women
vanish from the public eye,” he said. In the street she wears a plum-colored
burka, which walls her off from the world and from the eyes of any man other
than her husband. “It is a beautiful thing to wear, not a curse,” she says.
Faced
by questions, she retreats into the black shawl wrapped around her face, as if
by doing so she might will herself to evaporate. The eyes flash anger. It is
not her custom to subject herself to the questions of strangers.
Had
she ever felt safe?
”No.
But life under the Taliban was better. At least there was peace and order.”
Had
she ever seen the photograph of herself as a girl?
“No.”
She
can write her name, but cannot read. She harbors the hope of education for her
children. “I want my daughters to have skills,” she said. “I wanted to finish
school but could not. I was sorry when I had to leave.”
Education,
it is said, is the light in the eye. There is no such light for her. It is
possibly too late for her 13-year-old daughter as well, Sharbat Gula said. The
two younger daughters still have a chance.
The
reunion between the woman with green eyes and the photographer was quiet. On
the subject of married women, cultural tradition is strict. She must not
look—and certainly must not smile—at a man who is not her husband. She did not
smile at McCurry. Her expression, he said, was flat. She cannot understand how
her picture has touched so many. She does not know the power of those eyes.
Such
knife-thin odds. That she would be alive. That she could be found. That she
could endure such loss. Surely, in the face of such bitterness the spirit could
atrophy. How, she was asked, had she survived?
The
answer came wrapped in unshakable certitude.
“It
was,” said Sharbat Gula, “the will of God.”
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Nosakhare favour osayuwamen
Would this war ever end?
ReplyDeletePheezycorner.blogspot.com
same question l ask everytime
DeleteThe fight has become so warped the lines (reason for the war) are now horribly blurred but yet it seems there is no end in sight.
ReplyDeleteword!!!!
DeleteWow what war can do. The picture is absolutely amazing
ReplyDeletewww.DearGodDiaries.com
reli amazing
Delete